Basic Rules
Karador LRPG, Book I
Dagger
A dagger is a common weapon, often used as a back up weapon. Daggers are
constructed using the standard sandwich-camping pad foam method and my
never have a total length exceeding one and a half feet (18" ). The
handle of a dagger must be at least 6", allowing up to 12" for
blade and cross guard.
Thrown Daggers
Thrown daggers are just that. They are made to be thrown. You may not throw
a normal dagger, yet you may fight in melee with a thrown dagger. Thrown
daggers may be up to 9" long. Thrown daggers are constructed much
like swords using the sandwich method, yet only two strips of foam are
necessary. Furthermore, no PVC piping is used. Small objects like washers
are recommended to be sandwiched inside to give a little bit of weight.
Another final difference is that these strips can be a thin a 1" wide
rather than the 3" swords require.
Short Sword
A short sword is a common weapon for rogues, bards, and other poor warriors.
Short swords are constructed using the sandwich-camping pad foam method,
and may never exceed a total length of 26" (2 feet, and 2 inches).
The Handle of a short sword must be at least 6", allowing up to 20"
for the blade and cross guard.
Long Swords
A long sword is the most common of all weapons in fantasy games. Long swords
too are constructed using the sandwich-camping pad foam method, and my
not exceed a maximum length of 3' (36" ). The handle must be at least
8", allowing up to 28" for the blade and cross guard.
Bastard Sword
A bastard sword is a large sword, meant to be used in one hand at times,
and two at others. Bastard swords are constructed using the sandwich-camping
pad foam method, and may be no more than 42" long (3' 6"). The
handle must be at least 12" (1' ) long, allowing up to 30" for
the blade and cross guard.
2 Handed Sword
A 2-handed sword is a large weapon that is built using the sandwich-camping
pad foam method. It must be used in both hands at all times. The user of
a 2-handed sword may not use a shield or buckler of any type if using this
weapon. The handle of a 2-handed sword must be at least 15 inches, and
it's blade may be no longer than 42". Thus the entire 2-handed sword
may never be longer than 57".
Mace
A mace is a short blunt weapon made to cause lacerations and break bones.
A mace is made using the round foam construction method, and may be no
longer that 2' (24" ) over all. The handle must be at least 6",
allowing up to 18" to be used for the shaft and head. The double padded
head must be at least 4 and a half inches in length.
Footman's Mace
A footman's mace is a much larger battle mace used by the most adamant
of clerics. It's damage is not all that impressive because it is only a
bludgeoning weapon meant to show mercy, but it's reach is far superior
to that of a mace a cleric is normally restricted to carry. Footman's maces
may be up to a total length of 4', and is constructed using the round foam
method. It's handle must be at least 14" long. It's head must be at
least 10". It's shaft may be no longer than 18".
Battle Ax
As the name implies, a battle ax is a large, heavy ax that does an impressive
amount of damage. The head of the battle ax is constructed using the sandwich-camping
pad foam method, and it's haft covered using round foam. Battle axes may
be of a total length no longer than 3' long, with a head a full 14 inches
wide. A battle ax must have a handle at least 9" long, allowing 27"
for the shaft and head.
Spear
Traditionally spears were very common weapons. They were employed both
as melee weapons, and hurled at a distance. Construction of a spear requires
both the sandwich-camping pad foam method and the round foam method. The
shaft of the weapon is padded using the round foam method. The head must
be a triangle at least 10" long and 7" wide constructed using
the sandwich-camping pad foam method. The total length of the weapon may
be no longer than five and a half feet long. In addition to the above,
two hand grips no more than 7" long each must be marked along the
shaft of the weapon. these hand grips must be marked at least 10"
apart from each other. It is on these hand grips that your hands must always
rest when attacking with the spear in melee.
Halberd
A Halberd is a pole-arm much like a spear, except that it has a large ax-head
rather than a spear point. Unlike spears, Halberds may not be thrown. Construction
of a halberd requires both the sandwich-camping pad foam method and the
round foam method. The shaft of the weapon is padded using the round foam
method. The head must be an ax head that is at least 11" on a side,
constructed using the sandwich-camping pad foam method. The total length
of the weapon may be no longer than five and a half feet long. In addition
to the above, two hand grips no more than 7" long each must be marked
along the shaft of the weapon. these hand grips must be marked at least
10" apart from each other. It is on these hand grips that your hands
must always rest when attacking with the halberd in melee.
Staff
A staff is a long stick of a weapon, used primarily defensively. Staves
in this LRPG may be up to 6' long and are constructed using the round foam
method. At either end of the staff is a "double padded" end like
those found on a mace. At least 1 foot of both ends of the staff must be
"double padded this way. The center 4' is padded normally. Around
the center 9" of the shaft a grip of sorts should be marked. This
is really an anti-grip. Whenever the staff is employed offensively, one
hand must hold the staff on either side of this anti-grip.
Flail
A flail is a ball and chain weapon. It has a spiked ball connected to a
handle with a chain. Over all, they may be no more than 42" long.
The chain may not exceed 15" in length and must be made of light plastic
or rope. The ball bust be made of light foam, or be otherwise pillow-like.
The handle must be at least 12" long. The shaft is to be covered using
the round foam construction method.
Triple Flail
A triple flail is much like a normal flail save it has three heads. These
flails were once popular because of the grievous damage they inflicted.
Flails were over all cheaper to arm one's armies with than swords, and
adding extra balls to them was not that costly either. To construct a triple
flail, simply follow the specifications for a normal flail.
Grand flail
A grand flail is a huge two-handed version of the flail. It may be no more
than 6 and a half feet in length over all, and it's chain may be no longer
than 15". Of this 6.5 feet, 15" must be devoted to a handle to
control such an unwieldy weapon. other construction notes on a grand flail
are identical to those of a normal flail.
Blowgun
Blowguns were common weapons to many cultures in the past. Though they
themselves are not the best as an offensive weapon they are exceedingly
accurate at long range. Blowguns have historically been used as a device
by which poison has been delivered. Blowguns can best be made of 1/2 inch
PVC pipe with NERF bullets as ammunition.
Bow
bows are common weapons. We allow any toy bow you can buy in a toy store
as long as it shoots a safe projectile that does not fire multiple shots.
Please paint or decorate your bow appropriately if it is hot pink or neon
green.
Hide
Hide is a type of armor warn by many Viking types. It is nothing more than
thick animal fur used for warmth and protection. "Hide" can easily
be found as fake fur in fabric stores, though not very protective, it's
nice and warm... and looks good too.
Leather
Leather is a common armor. It is merely a thick leather clothing that stops
cuts, and absorbs blunt strikes. We recommend making yours out of vinyl
or brown denim.
Ring Mail
Ring mail is armor that is leather with metal rings sewn in for extra stopping
power. We have found that sewing washers onto the outside or denim (leather)
makes a nice effect. Be creative.
Scale Mail
Like the name implies, scale mail is many small overlapping pieces of metal
sewn onto leather so they overlap. in this way it appears like a lizards
skin. We haven't figured out how to make this easily, yet. Give it a try.
Chain Mail
Chain mail is armor made by ringing together lots of small rings in a way
that makes steel cloth. Find fishnet style of cloth, spray paint is silver,
and sew it onto the outside of black clothing. Silver lame also looks real
nice.
Plate Mail
Real plate Mail is made out of a lot of steel plates covering the body.
We have several cheaper, safer ways to make this. First, cutting that metal
they use for the duct work on a house, and riveting it to cloth works nicely.
Be sure to cover up all edges. Or plastic plates sprayed silver and sewed/riveted
to cloth can work. We have also seen nice pieces of plate armor made from
paper mashie. Finally, camping pad foam cut, taped, or hot glued together
can make neat armor.
Shield
A shield is a thing worn on an arm used to block attacks. We suggest snow
sleds, plastic garbage can lids, round pieces of blue board etc., padded,
and spray painted. Any shield used must have a tube of foam around all
edges of the face.
Helm
A helm is a piece or armor that covers the head and often the face.
Chukchi
A Chukchi is a piece of armor that covers the neck and shoulders.
Cuirass
A Cuirass is a piece of armor that covers the chest and back.
Taces
Taces are armor that is worn like a skirt that covers the groin and butt.
Brassart
A brassart is a piece of armor that covers the arms (Also called bracers).
Greaves
Greaves are pieces of armor that cover the legs.
Characters don't exactly die when they run out of hit points. They usually
fall unconscious first. If a character runs out of hit points, he is only
dead if the blow was enough to knock him/her to -5 HPs or worse. Otherwise
from 0 to -4, the character is unconscious. Unconscious characters must
drop to the ground and play dead. If an unconscious character is healed.
they will be at 1 hp regardless of what negative they were at, or how much
the healing restored. Until that character sleeps for 4 hours, they will
not be allowed to gain HPs above 1. During a battle, if a party flees and
leaves an unconscious character behind, or the entire party falls dead
or unconscious, it is left up to those reaming there and conscious to decide
the fate of the fallen. dead characters must defer to combat rule 10.
All weapons do an amount of hit points damage based upon what weapon they are. The following is a basic list of how much damage a weapon will do. Some blows may do more (see combat section) based upon characters having special abilities or weapons.
Blowgun............1
Thrown Dagger......1
Dagger.............2
Staff..............2
Footman's mace.....2
Mace...............2
Arrow (from bow)...3
Short Sword........3
Spear..............3
Flail..............3
Long Sword.........3
Grand flail........4
Bastard Sword......4
Halberd............4
Triple Flail.......4
2-Handed Sword.....4
Hide or Leather Helm..........+1
Chain, Scale or Ring Helm.....+1.5
Plate Helm....................+2
Hide or Leather Chukchi.......+1
Ring of Scale Chukchi.........+1.5
Chain Chukchi.................+1.5
Plate Chukchi.................+2
Hide or Leather Cuirass.......+1
Ring or Scale Cuirass.........+1.5
Chain Cuirass.................+2
Plate Cuirass.................+3
Hide or Leather Taces.........+1
Ring or Scale Taces...........+1.5
Chain Taces...................+2
Hide or Leather Brassarts.....+1
Ring or Scale Brassarts.......+1.5
Chain Brassarts...............+1.5
Plate Brassarts...............+1
Hide or Leather Greaves.......+1
Ring or Scale Greaves.........+1.5
Chain Greaves.................+1.5
Plate Greaves.................+2
Round up after finding a total
Each LRPG has only one GM (Game Master). He is the person who organizes
the entire event. Ultimately he is the one who makes all decisions. Working
with the GM as volunteers are the judges. There will be a number of judges
chosen by the GM to help him mediate fights, make rule clarifications,
do paperwork, and any other grunt work that needs to be done. These Judges
are in attendance primarily to do the things that the GM can't be everywhere
to do. As far as the player's should be concerned a ruling by a judge holds
just as much weight as if the GM had made it himself. Many spells and powers
requite that things be done in the presence of the GM or a Judge. If it
says by a Judge, find a judge, not the GM. If it says the GM, find him,
not a Judge. In addition to this, in any wandering band of monsters/NPCs,
there will be a Temp Judge. Ultimately that temp judge has the power to
mediate fights and normal spell casting, but must defer special spells
requiring a Judge to a real one.
Many characters and NPC's will have special abilities and powers that
they may be able to employ (like a halfling's "runaway card").
All of theses will be documented on cards that are used much like spell
cards, or written on a character record. On the card or the record there
will be a full explanation of how and when the ability can be used.
In every game session a predetermined number of characters will be given
the temporary and honorary title of "Heroic Character". Ultimately
how many and who will receive this is up to the G.M. Heroic Characters
are generally those who are the most experienced. Just because a person
was once a heroic character does not mean he/she will always be. Heroic
characters gain special privileges. Basically, before the game starts,
they talk to the G.M. and are allowed to break some rules that the G.M
approves of. Normally these things consist of being able to use equipment
like weapons and armor not normally allowed to their class. Using larger
or bizarre weapons is also common. Being able to cast clerical spells banned
form your religion is also not uncommon. Thieves may not have to discard
their thief cards when performing a particular feet or the like. If you
are ever honored by being a heroic character, give some thought to what
you want, and talk to the G.M about it.
It appears that entangle spells, and other effects like it have become
one of the most feared weapons in LRPGs. In the future, it will be possible
to escape entangles, and other holding type attacks if you have a friend
present who himself is not trapped. In order to do this, a free person
must grab hold of the trapped character ( the only case in which I will
tolerate people grabbing each other) and act out pulling him free for an
un interrupted 15 seconds straight. after this the character will be free
(unless the particular effect says otherwise). In the case of the "entangle"
spell, it is possible for a character to be freed by an alley with a bladed
weapon in 10 seconds if the bladed weapon is struck against the ground
around the trapped person's feet.
In games past, it was very simple for a small encounter to become an
outright war. All too often have two orks jumped four characters and had
another twenty characters rushing to the defense (over kill) for their
friends. I really wish I could have as many people doing monster duty as
I have playing so this would not be a problem. As it is however, I must
ask that no more than five characters ever become directly involved in
an encounter at the same time. If two or three characters could use some
help, by all means join them. What I will not have any more of is playing
pile on the ork. There will be some "grand" encounters in which
more than five players may join in a battle. A judge will always be present
at these "grand" encounters. If you need to know if it is such
an encounter, ask the judge. He/she will tell you. Just because a judge
is present does not make it a "grand" encounter,.
Playing turtle simply means to have a large shield, and to hide behind/under
it. Some people feel this is an unfair advantage. Deal with it. If somebody
wants to hide under a shield, that's the advantage they get from being
a class allowed to use one, and for dealing with lugging it around.
Overbearing is a tactic often used by people using shields in order
to make people move aside, or to "put the pressure on". Overbearing
is simply like using a shield as a moving wall to impose on another. Though
a good tactic in real fighting, don't do it in these LRPGs. It's just too
dangerous. The only time I ever want to see a shield touch another person's
equipment is when they block a weapon blow. I never want to see a shield
touch another person.
For the purposes of Live Action Role Playing, we will designate structures only by three simple types. These types are walls, tents, and buildings. To erect any type of fortification, a fee must be paid to the game master (in game GP currency). Furthermore, a maintenance fee must be paid for each day that the structure remains up.
Walls
Walls are generally considered to be wood or brick. You may actually construct
them from rope and tarps, wooden slat fences, or anything else you may
desire that is approved by the GM ahead of time. Walls are impassable unless
a character has a way of circumventing them with magic or actual ability.
Characters are free to exploit any weaknesses they find within a wall by
moving, shooting of fighting through expose areas so long as they do not
have to damage, alter or contort the material that makes up the wall. If
there is a hole in, or a space under, feel free to exploit it so long as
you actually don't alter the size, shape or position of the wall in any
way during your effort.
Tents
Tents are just what the name implies. They are simple structures made primarily
from cloth and poles that provide simple protection from the elements.
Tents do not make great fortifications. As far as game considerations go,
the do little more than offer a warm (kinda) place to stay. As far as seeking
cover in one, don't bother. You can not "lock" a tent either
magically or normally. If a bad guy wants in a tent, it's not too hard
for him to cut his way in. For the sake of our equipment in real life,
if somebody wants into a tent, they can go in.
Buildings
Buildings are a bit more secure against attack and raid. Buildings can
keep the unwanted out, they have a better than normal way to get in. Buildings
also offer a bit more protection from siege weapons, and are less likely
to be destroyed by them.
( important note! even though you are often at odds with people in character,
be sure to be courteous out of character. always be sure to be sure people
inside are decent and such. If you are hiding something in a tent, don't
bury it in your personal effects. If you are in sombody elses building/tent,
do NOT touch, examine personal stuff. only things that are obvious game
props. always let a judge know when you plan to enter a building/tent,
most times he will accompany you)
Siege weapons in the LRPG may take many forms. Catapults and ballistas are among the most historically accurate. Personally I don't care what is built for a siege weapon as long as it follows two major guidelines. First is that I test it, and that it and it's ammunition are safe. Secondly, that it look like a medieval artillery piece, and not a bungie slingshot. The way a siege weapon does damage is based upon the ammunition used. For the sake of rules, there are only four types of ammunition. These types and the damage they inflict are as follows.
Large Projectile
Large projectiles are boulders and tree trunk ballista shells. I recommend
these be made of foam or pillows. If you ever manage to strike a living
creature with one of these shell, they inflict 25HPs of damage. A large
projectile which strikes a wall will destroy it. This type of shell will
inflict 15 HPs of damage to any in a tent that it strikes as well as obliterating
the tent. Buildings struck by a large shell will be destroyed, as well
inflicting 7 HP to any within.
Small Projectile
Small projectiles are about the size of a volley ball. As a matter of fact,
decorated volley balls make great shells. Other things can work too, be
creative. It is possible to fire a salvo of up to 3 small projectiles in
a single shot. Small projectiles inflict 12 HPs to any creature who is
struck by one. Small shells do nothing to walls struck. Small shells destroy
any tent struck, and inflict 7 HPs damage to any within. If a small shell
strikes a building, all within suffer 5HPs of damage. If and a judge declares
that it looked like a good solid hit, the building is destroyed.
Scatter Projectile
Scatter projectile launches a volley of smaller rounds which cover a relatively
large area. Any person struck by any number of the rounds suffers 5 HPs
of damage. Scatter projectiles inflict 3 HP of damage to any creature in
a tent that is struck by the shot. Any inside of a building suffer 2 HP.
Scatter projectiles do no damage to structures.
Oil/Chemical Projectile
Oil/Chemical projectile will only be allowed when the G.M feels the weather
is appropriate. Generally a water balloon of simple water stream will represent
this type of attack. Oil will inflict 4 HPs of damage to any creature gotten
wet by it. Oil that strikes a tent will do 2 HPs to anybody inside of it.
The tent will be destroyed if nothing is done to stop the fire within 2
minutes. Oil will destroy a wall or building if nothing is done to stop
the fire before 5 minutes after the oil strikes.
Poison is a more and more common foe in LRPGs. In the past it was available
only to special monsters. Today, rules have been included so that everybody
can use it. Doses of poison can be obtained in many ways at the game master's
discretion, including purchasing or finding it (the rules are in the working
to make another class, Alchemist, who can make his own). Any dose of poison
that a player/NPC/etc. may have will be denoted completely on a small card
much like a spell card. Most types, unless otherwise noted on the card,
will be an injected poison that must be induced into the blood stream by
a weapon blow or the like. To poison a weapon, the card for that dose of
poison must be affixed to the blade tip of the weapon it has been applied
to with tape or by some other method. The effects of that poison will inflict
the first person who is struck by that weapon. There is a catch however:
that blow must do damage for the poison to generate effects. The blow itself
uses up the dose, but damage is required for it to generate effects. If,
for example, a poisoned weapon struck a druid who used nature's martyr
to deflect the blow, the dose would be expended, yet would generate no
effects because no damage was done. A dose on a blade works only on the
first blow (unless otherwise noted by the poison card). After a battle,
destroy any used poison cards expended during the battle. Note that some
monsters will have poison abilities noted on their monster forms that are
natural, thus, they need not use poison cards, instead simply defer to
the info on their record sheet.
To facilitate the plot line, game masters often prepare sets of rumor
cards that are distributed randomly to player's characters. These cards
contain information, often true but not always, that represents things
your character has heard before the game begins. When you get these cards,
read them and destroy them. Once you have read them, you may share your
info as freely or as reservedly as you wish. The game master ultimately
decides the set amount of cards that characters get. Warriors and thieves
normally get twice this many cards, and bards three times as many. High
level characters may also be given bonus rumors.
Many magic items will find themselves into the game. To the unknowing,
these work just like their mundane counterparts. The Gold glove with all
the gems in it is just a glove until you learn how to use it. Learning
the nature of an item may come in many ways, but the most common is an
Identify spell. When the Judge decides that you know it's nature, he will
give a character an Item record sheet. This sheet is not truly a belonging,
but rather proof to others of what the item does ("What do you mean
your sword does 30 hit points of damage?"). Though the item itself
may leave your possession, the knowledge of it is forever. When you need
to prove an item does what you say it does, you need only to show your
opponent the part of the record that involves the debate at hand.
Magic potions will be becoming a more common item found in future LRPGs.
Potions may only be drunk in the presence of a Judge, Temp Judge or the
GM. when a potion is to be drunk, the player must pop the cap of the potion,
say "Drinking a potion", and empty the content ( you can poor
it out or drink it based on where you found it. Don't drink a potion you
found in the woods, but if you but one directly from a Judge it's OK) Once
this is done, It is time to remove the card on the side of the container
and read it's effects. Again, show this to one of the people of authority
around.
We are at this time attempting to expand the number of people involved
in our little campaign. To this end I have extended invitations to several
chapters of IFGS. I have spoken to many of their people, and learned quite
a bit about LARPing from them. Though many of our philosophies differ,
I have found them over all to be people worthy of invitations. Those of
you who are IFGS players will be happy to know that any weapons you may
have that have been approved for use in IFGS games will also be acceptable
in mine so long as they meet the length requirements. (yes, your short
swords are most likely long swords in my game.)
Round Foam method
The round foam construction method is used in any situation in which a
weapon has a haft of any sort. Weapons like maces, spears, halberds, battle
axes, etc. We recommend that Water pipe insulation foam be used to cover
the haft entirely. Always use the thickest of this foam available. Be sure
to the best of your ability that the foam tube does not allow the core
to knock around inside of it. If this does occur, tape a few scrap bits
of foam to the core very tight so as to make it more snug inside the foam
tube. The foam of this type of tube must extend beyond 3 inches long wise
of the core on any part of a weapon that is not the handle. Around parts
of a weapon that are meant to actually hit opponents, an extra second layer
must be taped on top of the first. This will requite more than simply slipping
one layer of foam tube inside of another, because it will not fit that
way. The second tube should be split open long wise and wrapped over the
first layer as far as it will go. The remaining space should be filled
with another piece of foam cut to fit. This foam is then to be duct taped
along the outside in a round and round manner like one would rap a hockey
stick handle.
Core Materials
In building a LRPG weapon, you must have a core of some sorts to give the
item shape and a handle. We allow three general core materials to be used.
First we allow 1/2 inch plastic PCV piping, and recommend it only for weapons
shorter than four feet. A second material we allow is bamboo pole, preferably
no thicker than 3/4 inches. We recommend these for long haft/shaft weapons
that exceed four feet in length. The third type of core is primarily for
weapons that don't use a shaft at all. Things like small washers to give
thrown daggers enough weight to be thrown, yet don't allow it much velocity,
and rubber balls or bean bags that form the core of ball like weapons.
Sandwich Camping Pad Foam method
This method is used mostly in the construction of bladed weapons. It requires
a piece of camping pad foam at least 3/8 an inch thick, 9 inches wide,
and as long as you need the blade to be. Cut the camping pad foam into
three 3" thick strips that are as long as you would like the blade
to be. Choose one of these three strips and cut in half again long ways,
making two 1.5" strips. lay down one of the 3" wide strips and
place your core PCV pipe long ways down the center of the strip. Be sure
to leave at least 3" of foam extending beyond the core where the point
will be. Tape the core to this piece of foam with duct tape. Now lay each
of the 1.5" strips along the side of the core. Tape these well to
the core as well. Place the final 3" strip over the two 1.5"
strips with the core in the middle. Tape either side of this piece to each
of the 1.5" strips beneath it. Use long pieces of duct tape, and run
the strips long wise down the blade, NOT wrapped around in a circle manner.
Finish blade by completely covering any exposed padding with duct tape.
Cut the tip into a point and patch with more duct tape.
Cross Guards
Many weapons have cross guards. Please make them from tape covered foam
or some other soft material designed for safety. It does no good to have
a foam idiot proof sword with a pointy metal cross guard sticking out of
it.
Handle
Very simple. When you make a weapon, let one end of the core extend and
serve as the handle. Warp and cap it any way you desire. Be creative. We
like vinyl wrapping, or electrical tape. Some of you in the past have liked
the idea of using PVC elbows and joints to make odd shaped handles and
cross guards. Those joints always break. The most solid way to make anything
is from one solid piece. Make your handle from an extension from the core.
Bring
This booklet, food, water, tent, sleeping bag, LRPG weapons and armor,
costume, T.P, soap, flashlight, fork, spoon, knife, pots and pans, a lighter,
pocket knife, first aid kit, ax, saw, photo I.D, money, a pouch to carry
stuff, and a pen.
Don't Dare Bring
Real weapons, drugs, alcohol, radios, T.Vs, Video Games.